The igniter both sparks the burner and, on many gas ovens, proves the flame to the safety valve. A weak oven igniter glows but draws too little current, so the valve never opens and the oven never lights.
Stove & Cooktop Repair
Stove and Cooktop Repair: Burners, Elements and Ignition
Fix a gas burner that won't light, an electric element that stays cold, or an induction cooktop that won't detect a pan. Test the igniter, switch and element.
Cooktop faults are usually isolated to one burner, which makes diagnosis straightforward. A gas burner that clicks but will not light is typically wet, misaligned or blocked at the cap; one that never clicks points to the spark module or ignition switch. Electric coil and radiant elements fail open or shorted, and infinite switches fail so that the burner stays on full or not at all.
Induction and glass-top models add control boards and temperature sensors, and a cracked glass surface is a replacement decision rather than a repair. Always isolate the circuit before testing — a cooktop can be live at 240 V with the knobs off.
Symptoms this guide covers
- Gas burner clicks but does not light
- Burner clicks continuously even when off
- Flame is uneven, yellow or lifts off the burner
- Electric element does not heat or only heats on high
- Glass cooktop cracked or a burner ring not responding
- Induction cooktop will not detect a compatible pan
Test order before you replace anything
- Dry and reseat the burner cap and head; moisture and misalignment are the most common ignition faults
- Clean the igniter electrode and check the gap, then confirm the spark module is receiving power
- Test the surface element for continuity and inspect the receptacle and infinite switch
- For induction, test with a known magnetic pan and check the control board for error codes
- Confirm the cooktop is getting full voltage at the terminal block before condemning a control
Parts involved in stove or cooktop repair
The spark module sends high voltage to each igniter. When it fails, burners stop clicking or click continuously, and the fault is often shared across all burners rather than one.
Coil elements plug into a receptacle under the drip pan. They fail open or shorted, and a burned receptacle can take a new element out with it, so inspect both before replacing.
The infinite switch cycles power to an electric element to hold a heat setting. A failed switch can leave the burner on full, dead at every setting, or stuck on when the knob is off.
The control board runs the cycle and switches the loads. It is the most over-diagnosed part in appliance repair: failed elements, sensors, switches and pumps cause most 'board' symptoms.
What drives the cost
- Gas versus electric versus induction technology
- Whether the cooktop is a drop-in or part of a freestanding range
- Glass-top assembly cost versus a single element
- Control board and touch-panel availability
Safety first
- Shut off the breaker before removing a cooktop; the terminal block remains live
- If you smell gas, turn the supply off, ventilate, and do not operate switches or phones
- A cracked glass top should not be used — heat and spilled liquid can reach live components
Stove & Cooktop Repair by brand
Brand ownership changes which parts fit. These hubs cover the platform differences and the model-plate location for each brand.
Common questions
Why does my gas burner click but not light?
Most often the burner cap or head is wet, dirty or misaligned, so the spark lands away from the gas. Dry and reseat it first; if there is still no flame, check the igniter and gas supply to that burner.
Why does my electric burner only work on high?
That is the classic symptom of a failed infinite switch. The switch modulates power to the element, and when it fails it can stay closed. Replace the switch, not the element.
Can a cracked glass cooktop be repaired?
No. The glass is structural and carries the heating elements. A cracked top is replaced as an assembly, and the cost is often close to a new cooktop on older units.
Why won't my induction cooktop heat my pan?
Induction needs a magnetic pan with a flat base. Test with a magnet: if it does not stick, the pan is not compatible. If a known pan fails, the coil or control board is the next check.