The bake element is the main heat source in an electric oven. It fails open, often with a visible break or blister, and the oven stops heating while the stovetop keeps working.
Stove, Cooktop & Oven Repair
Range Repair: Cooktop and Oven Faults on One Appliance
Repair a freestanding or slide-in range when the cooktop and oven fail together or separately. Diagnose shared control boards, ignition and power problems.
A range combines a cooktop and an oven in one cabinet, which changes diagnosis: when both halves fail at once, the cause is usually shared — the terminal block, the main control board, the clock, or the gas supply — rather than two separate faults. When only one half fails, treat it like a standalone cooktop or oven.
Ranges also carry the highest electrical load in a kitchen. A loose terminal block or a burnt range receptacle can mimic a dead control board, so verify power at the block before ordering electronics. Gas ranges add a regulator and shut-off valve behind the unit that should be checked before any ignition work.
Symptoms this guide covers
- Cooktop and oven both stopped working
- Oven works but no burner heats, or the reverse
- Range trips the breaker when a burner is turned on
- Clock or display is dead while the cooktop still works
- Gas smell at the range or weak burner flames
- One half of the range works intermittently
Test order before you replace anything
- Measure voltage at the terminal block; a burnt neutral or loose lug kills 120 V controls while leaving 240 V elements live
- Inspect the range cord and receptacle for heat damage before replacing the control board
- Test the main control board and clock for power and burnt relay contacts
- Confirm the gas shut-off valve is fully open and the regulator is not leaking
- Isolate the fault by testing one burner and the bake element separately
Parts involved in range repair
The broil element sits at the top of the cavity and provides high heat for broiling. A failed broil element leaves the oven usable for baking but unable to broil, and it is tested the same way as the bake element.
The sensor reports cavity temperature to the control board. A drifting sensor causes over- or under-baking, uneven results and temperature error codes even though the elements still work.
Hinges hold the door against the gasket and control how it opens. A worn hinge lets the door sag, which breaks the seal and causes uneven baking, or makes the door spring shut.
The igniter both sparks the burner and, on many gas ovens, proves the flame to the safety valve. A weak oven igniter glows but draws too little current, so the valve never opens and the oven never lights.
The spark module sends high voltage to each igniter. When it fails, burners stop clicking or click continuously, and the fault is often shared across all burners rather than one.
Coil elements plug into a receptacle under the drip pan. They fail open or shorted, and a burned receptacle can take a new element out with it, so inspect both before replacing.
The infinite switch cycles power to an electric element to hold a heat setting. A failed switch can leave the burner on full, dead at every setting, or stuck on when the knob is off.
The control board runs the cycle and switches the loads. It is the most over-diagnosed part in appliance repair: failed elements, sensors, switches and pumps cause most 'board' symptoms.
What drives the cost
- Shared control board versus separate cooktop and oven faults
- Gas versus electric supply and connection type
- Slide-in versus freestanding cabinet design
- Whether the range must be moved for access
Safety first
- Pull the range out and unplug it, or shut the breaker, before any panel work
- A gas range must be leak-tested with soap solution after any connection is disturbed
- Replace a damaged cord or receptacle rather than reusing it — range circuits carry 40 to 50 amps
Stove, Cooktop & Oven Repair by brand
Brand ownership changes which parts fit. These hubs cover the platform differences and the model-plate location for each brand.
Whirlpool RangeMaytag RangeKitchenAid RangeAmana RangeRoper RangeGE Appliances RangeSamsung RangeLG RangeFrigidaire RangeElectrolux RangeKenmore RangeBosch Range
Common questions
Why did my whole range stop working?
Check the breaker, then the terminal block and cord. A burnt neutral or loose connection at the block cuts power to the controls and can affect both the cooktop and oven.
Can I replace a range control board myself?
Yes on most models, but confirm the board is actually dead first. Photograph the connectors, label the wires and disconnect power at the breaker. Boards are expensive and usually non-returnable.
Why does my gas range smell when the oven runs?
A brief smell on first use after cleaning is normal. A persistent smell means a leak or incomplete combustion — shut off the gas and have it checked.
Is a slide-in range harder to repair?
The components are similar, but access is tighter and the unit is heavier. Many slide-in models require removing the rear panel or lifting the cooktop for oven parts.